In Defense of Pickerel

Stop throwing shade on this fish and cast a line instead to enjoy an amazing summer snack.

I've heard more grumbles at the mere mention of Chain Pickerel than possibly any other fish in Maine.

But…I have to say, pickerel are welcome on the end of my line any time.

Sure, they have an alligator's head, they’re slimy as hell, and if you're not targeting them, those teeth can clip your line — but they are a constant.

They're great to stalk, great to battle, and great to eat. They’re seemingly doing well in watersheds all across Maine, and that’s something to celebrate when many other fish species are not.

Unlike most of the anglers wading into rivers and streams throughout Maine, I spend a lot of time in a solo canoe, paddling around lakes and ponds.

Part of this is because I love to paddle. Part is because I get snaged in fewer branches when I'm on open water. Notice I say "fewer" and not "none."

Time in a canoe feels slower and less chaotic than when I’m wading, and I find it easier to settle into a space when I’m floating on the surface. Wading gives you that kinetic feel of the water, which I do enjoy, but paddling gives me an observational perspective and a flexibility that I can’t help but seek out over and over.

There’s nothing like paddling on a quiet weedy marsh.

The still waters, sounds of wildlife, and letting your eyes soften their focus to find the subtle, and sometimes explosive, movements below the surface are a welcome break from the hustle of daily life.

The shallow, weedy areas around the shorelines of many Maine lakes and ponds are often full of Pickerel, lying in wait to ambush small perch, trout, bass, and anything else that passes by...including your fly. From a habitat perspective, these shallow areas give you a clear glimpse into the overall ecosystem of a given body of water.

But I should back up.

The reason I go in search of Pickerel is, like most things that motivate me, food-based. Years ago, while at a family camp, a long-time neighbor invited us over for food and drinks on the porch. They’ve spent every summer in this camp for over 50 years — and with no electricity, conveniences, or distractions — they've dialed in their routine on this remote lake.

Morning skinny dipping. Breakfast. Chores. Fish in the canoe. Admire the loons. Food prep. Shovel the outhouse. Cocktail hour. More food. Read a book. Repeat.

They introduced me to pickerel ceviche, and they’ve taken time to experiment, so if it’s their go-to, I’m happy to make it mine. The pickerel is served with red onion, red pepper, and tortilla chips (with optional add-ons).

Needless to say, it slaps.

I'm always looking for ways to prepare fish that don't involve frying, and this dish is bright, citrusy, and a perfect summer snack that amazingly, makes it easier to prepare pickerel.

For those that have not had the pleasure of filleting a Chain Pickerel, just know that they might as well have invented the Y-bone, because they are full of them. There’s a way to carve out five fillets, working around the bone, though I have yet to do so successfully.

Thankfully, in this recipe, you don’t really need to mind the bones. I take a straight fillet cut along the backbone and down the sides of the Pickerel, hearing what sounds like a zipper pull as the knife clicks against countless bones as it slices its way down the fish.

Ceviche, in simple terms, is fish pickled in lime juice. The acidity of the lime juice "cooks" the flesh of the fish by breaking down the proteins, just without the heat. In this preparation, the acidity also dissolves the bones entirely, so you're left with firm, but tender, white cubes of fish at the end.

Now a caveat ——

I am not harvesting the largest pickerel out there. I leave those as brood stock and typically harvest mid-size fish, so the recipe that follows is based on that. A larger fish, with larger bones may take longer, or not dissolve the bones entirely, so use your best judgement if you’re going to try this recipe.

The other key to this preparation is using the right tools. And by that I mean a fly tied with a weed guard.

Fishing in weed beds could quickly turn unenjoyable if you’re snagging on every cast. I typically tie a clouser-style fly with some 20-30 lb mono looped over the hook to keep from snagging, and floating frog patterns work well too. Here’s Tim Flagler’s video for tying a weed guard.

I also use a 30lb mono tip on my leader to avoid those razor teeth sawing through my line.

Aside from the fishing, chasing pickerel is also a great chance to find lots of other stuff in and around the water, so keep your eyes peeled and mind the teeth. 🛶

Clouser-style fly with a weed guard.

Blue Flag Iris growing in the marsh.

Sheep Laurel growing on submerged stumps.

Pickerel Ceviche Recipe

Ingredients:

• Fresh pickerel, roughly ¼” cubes

• 1 cup lime juice

• 8 tsp salt

• 1 red onion, finely chopped or thinly sliced

• 1 red bell pepper, finely chopped

• Cilantro

Optional Ingredients:

• 1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely chopped

• Corn kernels

• 1 Roma tomato, seeded and chopped

• ¼ cup white wine

• Garlic

Instructions:

1. Fillet and cube the pickerel.

2. Combine lime juice and salt. (add white wine if using)

3. Pour liquid over the pickerel, cover, and refrigerate for 3-4 days.

4. Drain the pickerel, but do not rinse.

5. Chop red onion, bell pepper, and cilantro.

6. Combine all and mix.

7. Serve with tortilla chips, crackers, bread — whatever floats your boat.

Notes:

This preparation requires a couple of days of refrigeration, so if you’re planning to serve this at a party or something, make sure to plan ahead.